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Spello

Nestled in the foothills of Mount Subasio is the picturesque walled town of Spellowhere winding medieval streets and age-old churches charm history buffs and architecture fans alike. Founded by the ancient Umbri, Spello was later colonized by Romans whose legacy can still be seen in sights like Porta Venere – a splendidly preserved Augustan-era town gate. Visit in summertime when Spello’s streets and honey-hued homes come alive with vibrant floral displays planted by locals.

Orvieto

Undoubtedly one of Umbria’s most beautiful hilltop towns, Orvieto – close to the border with Lazio – sits high atop a volcanic butte overlooking the scenic plains of the Umbrian southwest. The town’s crowning glory is the magnificent Orvieto Cathedral, the 14th-century Gothic jewel known for its vibrant facade and Renaissance painter Luca Signorelli’s awe-inspiring frescoes in the Chapel of San Brizio. Below Orvieto lies a magical myriad of Etruscan-era tunnels and grottos variously used as wine storage, World War II bomb shelters and a means of escaping sieges during their 2,500-year history and open to guided tours.

Castiglione del Lago

Located on the shores of Lake Trasimeno where Umbria meets TuscanyCastiglione del Lago is the site of the magnificent Castello del Leone, a fortress built in the 13th century, whose lofty watchtowers offer incredible views of the lake and surrounding countryside. The town is an ideal starting point for exploring Lake Trasimeno’s islands, the biggest of which, Isola Polvese, is part of a scientific and educational park. It is home to sites of historic interest like the Church of San Guiliano and the beautiful Garden of Aquatic Plants, designed by architect Pietro Porcinai in 1959. Each spring, the skies above Castiglione del Lago become a colorful canvas when the Coloriamo i Cieli Festival sees hundreds of kites and hot air balloons take to the air.

Assisi

Just a few miles east of Umbria’s capital Perugia, the beautiful hilltop town of Assisi is best known as the birthplace of Saint Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of animals and the environment. The Basilica di San Francesco, built in St Francis’ honor between 1228 and 1253, is one of Assisi’s must-visit sights and a UNESCO World Heritage Site that remains an important Christian pilgrimage site today. Sights like the perfectly preserved Temple of Minerva built by Romans in the 1st century are testament to Assisi’s respect for its rich history, while the beautiful Mount Subasio Regional Park is a haven for nature lovers.

Todi

Perched on a hilltop high above the winding River Tiber, the pretty town of Todi is like something straight out of a fairy tale. Narrow, cobbled streets meander its hilly terrain and lead to beautifully preserved medieval monuments like Palazzo del Popolo; built in 1213, this is one of Italy’s oldest public buildings, positioned alongside cute cafes and boutiques. Largely untouched by tourism, Todi offers a real slice of peaceful Umbrian life; while you’re there make sure you try local culinary delicacies like slow-cooked pigeon flavored with herbs, and Grechetto di Todi, a dry white wine made in the area for centuries.

Torgiano

Surrounded by seemingly endless olive groves and vineyards, it’s clear that olive oil and wine-making are central to the sleepy medieval town of Torgiano’s character. Indeed, the town’s celebrated produce has gained worldwide fame and visitors can learn more about Torgiano’s rich gastronomic history at the Museo del Vino and Museo dell’Olivio e dell’Olio. In addition to being a haven for gastronomes, Torgiano is one for the history buffs too and home to notable sights like its iconic Baglioni Tower, an imposingly beautiful guard tower dating back to 1274 located on the edges of this charming medieval town.

Spoleto

Spoleto is a walled hill town and one of the largest towns in southern Umbria. Spoleto has Etruscan, Roman, and medieval sites. Above Spoleto is a medieval Rocca and spanning the deep gorge to one side of the Rocca is Spoleto's most famous sight, Ponte delle Torri or Bridge of Towers. The ancient Longobard Church of San Salvatore is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Festival ​dei due mondi, two worlds festival, is held in Spoleto in late June through early July.

 

 

Gubbio

Gubbio is a well-preserved medieval hill town built of gray limestone. Gubbio's compact center has a good selection of medieval, Gothic, and Renaissance monuments. Just outside the town is a Roman amphitheater. Gubbio sits in a scenic position on the lower slopes of Mount Ingino and from the town there are beautiful views over the countryside.

 

Siena

My favorite city in central Italy outside of Perugia. Siena is Rinascimento harmony at its best (that’s the Italian word for Renaissance). It is almost inaccessible by train from Perugia because of numerous transfers and connections, hence much more convenient to take the bus departing from the train station. It usually leaves at 8:35 in the morning and departs Siena to come back at 16:30 (€20 roundtrip). Ask for the newest schedule at the bus station in Piazza Partigiani or look at www.sena.it. Two must-sees at Siena are Il Campo, the perfect piazza which focuses your attention on the proud town hall, and the Duomo. Even more interesting than the cathedral (did you ever think green could look so good on a cathedral?) is the cathedral-that-wasn’t. In the early 1300s the Florentines completed their new cathedral. Their rivals the Sienese said, “Hah, we can beat that!” and began an ambitious building project: to build a new nave and turn the old nave into the new transept. If you go into the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo and follow the signs past all the old scepters up to the “Panorama,” it will all be clear to you (and please, says Marsely, check out Duccio’s “Maestà” while you’re in the museum – it’s an Early Renaissance masterpiece). The city fathers commenced their project and the piazza below would have been inside the new cathedral. The wall you’re standing on would have been at the front of the cathedral, the top of the main entrance. In the piazza below you can see the white circles, the foundations of enormous pillars that never were. A banking collapse in the 1320s and then bubonic plague killed the idea permanently in 1348, along with a third of Siena’s population.

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Hot Springs

There are two main ones, both free and both open at night. One is near Viterbo and one is in San Casciano dei Bagni in Tuscany. It’s notoriously hard to find anyone who actually knows how to get to them…so I’m not going to tell you either. You’ll need a car to arrive as well as MapQuest, or ask Piccola Umbria(see the end of this page) for a quote. Both hot springs are free though the ones in Tuscany are definitely more scenic – you’re in a valley below a big castle, lit up at night for your Italian memories.

 

Deruta

When in Deruta, think ceramics. Its simple claim to notoriety is as one of the top production centers for majolica pottery in Italy. Hundreds of warehouses and factories line the main street with more in the city proper on the hill. If you’re dead keen on going pott(er)y you can even take in the Ceramics Museum and Art Gallery situated in the Palazzo Comunale behind the main piazza. You are welcome to poke your head into the artisan workshops for a firsthand look at how the pottery is made, both in the city and outside; a jewel is the Cama Workshops. Need a “Beware Of The Cat” decorative ceramic tile for your dream home? Find it here! Visit the very helpful Pro Deruta Association in Piazza dei Consoli 4a1 for free maps and city guides. A selection of Deruta ceramic ware is also on show and sale at the colorful Saturday morning market in Perugia. It’s held behind the Duomo on Piazza Danti, 8-13.

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Kit and Melisa xx

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